National Geographic Magazine, January 2007...

Showdown at the Victoria Falls

Just before the Zambezi River makes its famous plunge, lies a small, undeveloped stretch of Zambia's Mosi-Oa-Tunya National Park. It's a crucial elephant crossing and the sole riverfront spot in the park that people can enjoy without paying a fee. South African developer, Legacy Holdings Zambia, with the support of the Zambia Wildlife Authority, has different plans for the site: two hotels, 400 villas, and a golf course. In a nod to wildlife, the plans include an elephant right-of-way flanking the Maramba River. Critics find this laughable. "Elephant corridors have never worked anywhere," says conservationist, Mike Musgrave.

Since the proposal became public last summer, Zambians ranging from local government offficials to a bike-tour guide have rallied in opposition. Area residents welcome development, just not so close to the falls that it jeopardises the park's status as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. They hope grassroots pressure and a legal challenge will save the park's last riverfront open space.

"Even 30 years ago Victoria Falls was overdeveloped," says Ian Manning, a former park warden. "This would be a disaster."